Born in London’s Maida Vale in 1903, Sir Hardy Amies opened the doors of his Savile Row headquarters in 1945 and soon became a pioneer of British tailoring.
He once said “A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them” and this ethos still resonates today. The effortless refinement and distinct British flair remains as strong as ever.
“I can’t help it. I’m immensely impressed by all genuine upper-class manifestations,” designer Hardy Amies once admitted. Born in 1909 in Maida Vale, West London, Amies grew up to become of the most important post-war names of British fashion, and will always be remembered for dressing the Queen.
When asked which collection was his favourite, Hardy always replied “the next one”. And we can see why…
Legendary British fashion house Hardy Amies has been rejuvenated in the past few years under the helm of creative director Claire Malcolm, who has cut the brand’s traditionally tailored aesthetic with some individual, modern day touches. The look itself is an even measure of gentleman and dandy, with any eccentric details tempered by a clean design and staple colours – above all, a primary focus on the correct fit for the modern man.
As a British menswear brand with its tailoring house founded on Savile Row, Hardy Amies has taken a decidedly non-traditional approach to new styles. With a nod to its heritage but also a practical consideration of the present, Hardy Amies tell their story about what style is; the difference between fashion and style and what really makes the man. Hardy Amies has a very interesting heritage, they try and covey this tradition whilst still staying true to the elements that are still relevant and appealing to a modern customer.
THE term “cutting a dash” sounds sadly outmoded these days. One can’t really cut anything in the unstructured quilted bombers or off-duty tracksuit bottoms (no matter how luxurious) that have been punctuating London Collections: Men.
But that didn’t deter Hardy Amies’ creative director Claire Malcolm’s latest razor-sharp suiting collection in the salon of the Savile Row house Amies established in 1942. Beginning his career at Lachasse before moving to Charles Frederick Worth – considered by many to be the original couturier – Amies established a flourishing bespoke business in the post-war years for both men and women. How serendipitous then that a woman should hold the creative reigns of such a prestigious house on the male-centric street. Master pattern cutter Catherine Seargent has her own line, but women on Savile Row are few and far between.
Her expert tailoring reveals not a feminine touch but a resolute and confident approach to modern suiting. Double-breasted suits are strictly waisted in the formal English style (not relaxed like the Americans, or straight up and down like the Europeans), but shortened lapels give a preppy air to overcoats, and a rucksack in a continuation of the Prince of Wales check gives a nod to street style.
Meanwhile, paying homage to the ABC of Men’s Fashion, a book written by the brand’s founder, Hardy Amies has released a series of short films with some of the world’s most influential people involved in the creative industries. The ABC of Men’s Fashion was first published in 1964 and written by Amies to offer guidance to young men on how to dress. It remains notorious today for its opinionated tone and sharp wit. Watch the films here.
It’s certain that the Hardy spirit will forever live on and continue to define the epitome of London style for decades to come.