On an unremarkable backstreet in the Hackney/Islington borders is an old pub with a story. An all-too-familiar story in the world of the urban boozer: developers submit planning application to demolish and replace with residential units. Most of the time this tale has the same ending, and it’s not a happy one for drinkers.
The Wenlock poured its first pint in 1836; it closed with its parent company in the 1960s, then reopened in 1994, whereupon it won awards for the quality of its real ale and plaudits for the toastiness of its real fire.
But in 2010 the threats of redevelopment began, with many ups and downs, false dawns and setbacks. Wenlock regulars were more motivated than most, launching campaigns to defend it, but things looked bleak.
However, a sympathetic Hackney Council extended a conservation area to safeguard the pub, and the owners of the Red Lion & Sun in Highgate stepped in and signed a lease. Sleeves were rolled up for a refurbishment which involved a quality paintjob, some new furniture and even more beer fonts.
The exterior of solid 19th Century brick is now painted in a suitably industrial russet brown. The interior needed drastic uplift and this has been sympathetically done, with wooden floorboards mended and sanded and walls repainted in a burgundy shade. New magenta leather banquettes add to the upgraded appeal and comfort. The most eye-catching feature is the now polished servery bar – this is a splendid example of Victorian craftsmanship with moulded and incised wooden panels (including rare surviving London hinged doors at the front), mirrors and gleaming brass fittings.
In January 2012 View London said: “The Wenlock Arms has been saved. Now it has to be reborn.” Re-opening in June 2013, it has returned to former glory as a destination venue for discerning drinkers.
The Wenlock is the quintessence of all that is good about pubs – it’s a taproom with minimal decor, minimal food (a special mention must go to the salt beef sandwiches and the own-made scratchings) and brilliant beer. Plus it’s a free house, meaning it can buy from any brewery it chooses. Boasting the largest selection of real ales in North London, you’ll easily find quirkily-named, rare brews from obscure companies. The turnover is pretty high, so the selection could well entirely change between visits – even in the same week. A remarkable range of real ales is now enhanced by immeasurably improved offerings of great gins, magnificent malts and pleasing pub grub.
Weekend nights are especially popular, with a trio of elderly gents usually in residence playing some fine jazz, while the Thursday quiz night attracts the crowds to an already very busy pub. The locals create a genuinely friendly atmosphere, just like a real pub should, but it also comfortably caters for younger, newer N1 residents and a regular stream of CAMRA members.
On paper this pub could be awful: hidden off the City Road and hard to find, it’s in an area filled with factories, warehouses and a council estate. Once you’ve found it, however, it’s a total gem. The Wenlock Arms will forever be remembered as the phoenix of a Victorian treasure raised from the ashes of near-demolition by noble pub lovers. Go along to toast their triumph. English Real Ale, New Zealand lager, Japanese malt – all will be appropriate!
| 26 Wenlock Road, London, N1 7TA | Transport: Old Street tube/rail |
| Telephone: +44 020 7608 3406 | Open: Mon-Wed 16:00-23:00, Thurs 16:00-00:00, Fri & Sat 12:00-1:00, Sun 12:00-23:00 |
| Website |
