We all know first impressions matter and as much as we like to think a confident handshake and a smile is all we need, everyone is looking at what you’re wearing.
Many shun the suit and tie in favour of more casual apparel either for comfort or in an effort to appear more relaxed and less uptight. This is a mistake and a missed opportunity; nothing matches the instant respect and perceived credibility of a well cut suit. The suit is an especially effective tool for young businessmen who want to be taken seriously.
The comfort point is easy to tackle; a well tailored suit is as comfortable as a polo shirt and jeans. An uncomfortable suit is either not your size or made from an unsuitable fabric. Ties are an issue for some and if they make you feel uncomfortable, avoid them completely; just don’t forget to undo the top two buttons of your dress shirt.
On to the more complex point of feeling uptight in a suit; this is a commonly held reason for avoiding suits but entirely avoidable. The reason why many men appear uptight, stiff and boring in a suit is due to a lack of confidence in how they look. This lack of confidence leads to excessive thought being placed on their attire and negative posture.
To look good in a suit you need to feel good about wearing it. Walk down a busy city street and you’ll see hundreds of men in suits. You won’t notice 99% of them; they’re just men in dull suits. Every now and then someone will stand out; they look cool, slick, and gloriously confident. This man wears the suit, the suit doesn’t wear him. Part of you wants to be this guy. So how do you do it?
The first step is by far the most important. Fit. A handcrafted Italian suit will look horrendous if it’s the wrong size. Here are my simple pointers for getting a good fit when buying off the rack:
- Shoulders are the most important to get right as they can’t really be altered. Make sure they are as wide as your shoulders and no wider.
- Jacket length is next in importance as alterations are very tricky. ‘Trendy’ suits can have very short jackets; these can look good but don’t flatter the majority of builds. Stick to the classic length, with the jacket long enough to cover your seat.
- Sleeve length and waist are less important to get exactly right off the rack as these can be altered to a certain extent. The sleeve should end exactly at your wrist bone and the waist nipped in to highlight the shape of your torso.
- Trousers are easier to get right. Make sure the trousers are designed for how you wear them; pleated trousers are designed to be worn on the natural waist and flat fronts are generally meant to be worn lower. Make sure the trouser leg is just long enough to cover your socks when standing still.
The other details are easy to get right:
- Natural fibres should always be chosen over synthetics, suits are usually made from wool and shirts from cotton. Thinner wool and linen suits are a great choice for summer and cotton can work for a more casual look.
- Shirt fit is personal preference, though more fitted is advisable. The only vital fit point is sleeve length; the cuff should end at the base of your palm; this will allow around half an inch of cuff to show.
- Invest in shoes. Spend upwards of £200 on a pair of well-made shoes and they will last for years with regular maintenance. Avoid the whims of fashion and buy a classic brogue or cap toe with closed laces and leather soles. It is advisable to own two pairs of shoes so each pair can rest a day between wears.
- A suit needs a pocket square and I suggest simply folded white Irish linen. If you wear double cuff shirts, cufflinks will be necessary; keep them solid metal and simple. Ties should be simply patterned, moderately wide and made from silk. Keep away from matching ties and pocket squares at all costs.
So you’ve got the clothes. The next step is looking like you belong in them. The way to achieve this is through what the Italian’s call Sprezzatura. Basically, it’s all about appearing like you haven’t tried incredibly hard to look as good as you do.
It’s a simple step many men miss out, resulting in that overly polished look that you want to avoid. You have to appear like it comes easy to you. Get the basics right and you don’t need to worry if a tie pin comes out of place – it’ll add the natural effect that you own your look and you’re confident in your style.
Relax, feel confident and follow the above steps and you’re sure to get heads turning in the boardroom for all the right reasons.
