Jermyn Street, traditionally the heart of London’s shirt making industry, has very few family-owned firms left. One, however, does remain in business. Introducing Harvie and Hudson. Thomas Harvie and George Hudson opened the first Harvie & Hudson London store in 1949.
Thomas sourced the finest cloths, while George cut bespoke shirts. They instantly became known for their English craftsmanship and attention to detail, dressing London’s most prestigious gentlemen. The 1960’s saw a new colourful era for Harvie & Hudson under the direction of Jeff Harvie, Derek and Howard Hudson.
It was during this period that the signature H&H stripe emerged after some bespoke shirts were made up out of flamboyant pyjama material to brighten up a window display. It instantly captured the moment, with customers rushing to buy bright pink, red, yellow, green and purple striped shirts, creating something of a revolution up and down Jermyn Street. Today the business is in the hands of a third generation of Harvie and Hudsons, and continues to expand with the opening of new stores.
They sell mainly shirts, ties and formal accessories. While bespoke shirts are the mainstay of their business, they also sell ready-to-wear ones and they continue to design their own exclusive cloth patterns including the famous striped cottons and silks which are woven by Anderson’s of Scotland – a weaving firm established over 150 years ago.
Cutting that fabric, however, is what distinguishes one shirt-maker from another. The Harvie & Hudson style is very distinctive and has a high-standing collar with a 3.5-inch long point with a 2-inch back. Needless to say, they’ll make your shirt any way you choose if you have them custom-made – in which case you’ll find yourself in the hands of Mr Bertie Mason or Mr Irving Wernick.
Personally I would buy a shirt from Mr Mason just to experience old-world courtesy and kindness at its best. He learnt his trade in Jermyn Street more years ago than he cares to remember and has had so many famous names among his regular clients that he finds it easier to tell you which kings, princes, stars and celebrities he hasn’t known.
He could tell you the collar size of King Gustave, the Duke of Kent, Rex Harrison, Oscar Peterson and Peter Ustinov – just for starters. What Harvie & Hudson are best at is a generous shirt with plenty of length, the deep collar, deep French cuffs (doubled for links) and a very sensible disregard for the extremes of fashion because their shirts will long out-last the latest gimmick if properly looked after.