Smiths of Smithfield

When Smiths opened in 2000 under the direction of chef John Torode (better known today as a presenter of MasterChef), it had buzz and boldness. Four floors, four tiers of dining and drinking, from casual to fine dining. Mr Torode left the restaurant early in 2013 so, what can we expect now?

While slick operations run on floors one, two and three of Smiths of Smithfield, the Ground Floor is a far more relaxed and laid-back setting where weeknight drinks and weekend brunches dominate.

Smiths of Smithfield used to be quite the cool kids hangout – being next door to fabric nightclub gave it a certain pre-club kudos, while Smithfield market over the road added an element of heritage, never mind the fact that celebrity chef John Torode was driving the operation. Now Torode has parted ways with SOS, the multi-floor venue has to rely on other things to keep the punters coming, and the ground floor bar is the first chance the venue has to lure them in. A very stripped-back aesthetic is met with classic trendy embellishments like exposed ceiling ducts, pendant lamps and a dank, dark concrete floor. Plenty of long benches and a few round tables with stools make up a fairly utilitarian seating arrangement and a kitchen to the side adds a little visual stimulation should people watching or the haze of your laptop screen no longer suffice.

It’s the most casual setting of all the floors – an all-day venue acting as a café and work station during the day, an after work drink port of call by night and a lazy brunch option at weekends. Slicker business people filter through to the other floors, so expect a relatively smart-casual crowd here, although during the day there will always be the inevitable laid-back business meeting taking place. Come the evening, the crowd can get lively, aided by a soundtrack of hip indie beats and the rumble of trains underground from nearby Farringdon station.

Bar snacks and brunch make up the menu on the lower floor of Smiths of Smithfield. These snacks are limited to hot rolls, including an ever-popular fish finger sandwich (£5.50) with satisfyingly fat fingers of cod and a sharp tartare sauce in fresh bloomer bread. A BBQ pulled pork sarnie with slaw (£6) is another crowd pleaser, too. The café menu is only available at allotted times during the day, which includes brunch options, so if you’re hankering a fry-up don’t leave it too late. You’ll be handsomely rewarded for turning up on time though, with even the veggie breakfast (£7.50) providing a whopping plate of fried delights, with spinach and bubble and squeak making nice additions. However, with the famous meat market over the road, a traditional fry up is recommended, since it comes with only the best British meat.

Torode’s dedication to eulogising the best in British meat has remained meaning a trip to this restaurant promises to be a meaty affair. The top floor restaurant serves lunch, dinner and brunch on Sundays. Expect NY-style big plates for sharing along with the infamous steaks.

If the weather permits you can take a seat on the terrace to make the best of the stunning views over the Grade II listed market and the surrounding City-scape.

Classic cocktails are whipped up behind the bar, with the option of a Whisky Sour (£8) or Tom Collins (£8) suiting the business crowd well. A Bloody Mary with brunch is reasonably well spiced – many may prefer a bit more kick with theirs – but served in a pint glass, it’s a bit of a feast. A collection of cocktails at just £5 is recession-proof though, especially when it comes to a boozy Caipirinha. Beers are another string to the bar’s bow, with their own brand of SOS lager (£4.10) brewed in the Czech Republic and joining a list of other continentals the likes of Vedett, Grolsch and Zatec.

Smiths of Smithfield is full of treats, from the sumptuous dishes, the delectable drinks and the breath-taking views…just don’t take your vegetarian friends.

https://junior-broker.com/life/food-drink/restaurants/smiths-of-smithfield/

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