Even if the name doesn’t ring a bell, you’ll know about Foxlow already. It’s that new place from the people behind Hawksmoor.
When Huw Gott and Will Beckett opened the original Hawksmoor in Spitalfields in 2006, they were credited with making steakhouses cool again. Now four restaurants strong, steaks are all the rage across town and the pair could justly be described as the darlings of the restaurant scene.
Opening something different in Foxlow seems like a clever move. It allows expansion without over-stretching or devaluing the Hawksmoor brand, and allows the guys to play with new ideas free of the fear of tampering with a clearly winning formula.
Foxlow, which opened a month ago on already-restaurant-packed St John Street shares the same key principles as its forefather: hefty helpings of good meat (from supplier Ginger Pig), great service and cool cocktails.
Inside, the décor is filled with warm woods, low lighting and comfy retro-themed furniture. It’s light and airy contrasting greatly with Hawksmoor’s dark gentleman club tones; the setting feels a touch more casual and care-free. A nice design feature is the old London Underground tiles and an old mounted tram map. It seats 100 but thanks to some clever spacing it actually feels much more intimate: the moss green banquettes and low lamps give it the Manhattan vibe that many restaurants in the capital attempt but so few succeed at.
The cooking, on the whole, is terrific. There’s a daily specials board of impeccably-sourced steaks – but unlike Hawksmoor, Foxlow is not a steakhouse. Instead, a compact menu offers food that will comfort and soothe. A dish of ‘smokehouse rillettes’ sees a smoky mound of beef, turkey, pork and pig fat (lardo) knocked into shape by a tart jumble of cucumber, pickles and capers. A slab of bacon, around eight rashers thick, has been basted in maple and chilli and roasted for eight hours. As if the sweet, smoky, spicy meat with its strata of juicy fat wasn’t succulent enough, it comes with a dinky jug of fiery, sweet and smoky barbecue sauce. There is also a deliciously posh salad bar to pick at. For desert, the individual sour cherry pie has a soft, almost cakey pastry lid, and a side of soft, sweet ice cream.
It’s rare to see such a well chosen menu that makes you want to order every single one of the five starters and eight mains. The bacon-wrapped ribs are already doing big business and the Krusty Burger inspired “Ribwich” will build a cult following in no time. In a town with too many steakhouses already, Hawksmoor have made the smart move by expanding their palette.
A small and inviting cocktail bar serves the thoughtful wine list and other fairly priced bevargaes. A tangy pickleback cocktail and a spicy, chipotle and whisky-laced Bloody Mary provide warm-up fodder along with homemade crisps topped with goat butter and anchovies.
But what makes Foxlow special is the service. The youthful staff know their menu better than their phone numbers and they throw in bags of personality, beaming smiles and a nothing-too-much-trouble attitude.
Starters are around £7, mains £16 and desserts £5 – even with a few sides added on that’s a pleasant comparison to big brother Hawksmoor where a steak can easily approach (or surpass) the £30 mark.
All in all, a great new restaurant.
| 69-73 St John Street, London, EC1M 4AN | Transport: Farringdon tube |
| Telephone: +44 020 7014 8070 | Opening Times: Lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00, Sun 12:00-17:30, Dinner served Mon-Sat 17:30-22:30 |
| Price: Meal for 2 with drinks and service: around £90 | Website |
